Birks & Mayors Inc.

Ethical jewelry┬áWith increased awareness of the environmental damage caused by irresponsible gold mining, Birks & Mayors is among a growing number of retailers who are providing customers with an ethical alternative, as Alan T Swaby learns. In difficult trading times, the conventional wisdom is to cut costs. So why then would an organization choose a path that increases the cost and effort involved in producing its goods, for no appreciable economic benefit? In the case of jewelry manufacturer and retailer Birks & Mayors, itÔÇÖs to make a statement that reinforces the businessÔÇÖs core values of ethics and integrity.Birks is the best known name in Canada for jewelry. It has been around since 1879 and has 39 stores throughout the country. Unlike other retailers, itÔÇÖs vertically integrated, in that not only does it sell jewelry, gifts and timepieces, it also designs and manufactures them as well. Its long-term aim is to become an internationally renowned luxury brand, as familiar as names such as Tiffany and Cartier.Mayors, on the other hand, is exclusively retail, servicing the southeastern United States for over a hundred years. Its 31 stores throughout Florida and Georgia specialize in bringing the worldÔÇÖs finest jewelry and timepieces to its customers. Thus, alongside names such as Stern and Van Cleef & Arpels, its display cases have featured Birks brand products since the merger.In the mid 1990s, Thomas Andruskevich, formerly executive vice president of Tiffany & Company, joined Birks as president and chief executive officer with the brief of creating a world-class luxury brand. In 2002, as part of this process, Birks acquired a controlling interest in Mayors, and for the past three years the two companies have been listed as Birks & Mayors Inc., though both fiercely retain their individual brand images. ÔÇ£Despite being geographically diverse,ÔÇØ says senior vice president John Orrico, ÔÇ£both businesses share the same core values. We pride ourselves on integrity in dealing with customers and suppliers alike, as well as striving for the highest standards of quality, design, sustainability and product innovation.ÔÇØOn the day Birks first opened its doors 129 years ago, it had ethics and fair dealing at the top of its agenda, carefully ensuring that customers got value for money by meticulously grading the diamonds it sold. In more recent times, Birks became one of the first jewelers to trade in Canadian-mined diamonds and initiated a program that would provide complete tracking of their movements.Similarly, when the horrors associated with ÔÇ£blood diamondsÔÇØ from conflict areas became known, Birks was among the first to support the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, which set up an internationally recognized ÔÇ£passportÔÇØ for rough diamonds and national standards for diamond trading.With this kind of ethos running through the business, Birks has long been associated with sustainability. As such, it has recently signed a purchase agreement with Mammoth Tusk Gold, which is bringing 0.9999 pure gold to the market, mined in the Yukon in non-damaging ways. ÔÇ£We believe we are the only retailer,ÔÇØ says Orrico, ÔÇ£with a contractual commitment to buy gold and silver from a third-party certified source. Others have made pledges to buy ÔÇÿgreenÔÇÖ gold, but our agreement goes beyond a pledge; it is an audited warranty.ÔÇØGreen gold, also referred to as ethical gold, was initially associated with environmental issues and was brought to public attention by the Earthworks foundation, lobbying for various forms of responsible mining. Earthworks is particularly concerned about gold mining in developing countries where scant concern is paid to the land or the people working it. It makes the point that the small amount of gold found in a wedding ring could produce 20 tons of waste.┬áIrresponsible mining can have disastrous effects on water resources. Acids raise pH levels in rivers and lakes, to the detriment of humans and animals. A grain-size amount of cyanideÔÇöcommonly used in gold miningÔÇöcan be fatal for humans, while just one part in a million can kill fish.Mining is often introduced to developing areas on the strength of the economic benefits it will bring, but the reality can be quite different, with profits pocketed by overseas investors and local communities bearing the cost in terms of social unrest, pollution and deteriorating public health.For many, the sordidness associated with mining gold and precious stones is at odds with their use. Most jewelry is purchased to celebrate a happy moment in life, and thanks to campaigners such as Earthworks, the man in the street is now much more aware of the true price of irresponsible mining practices.┬á ÔÇ£By B&M signing up to the ÔÇÿNo Dirty GoldÔÇÖ rules,ÔÇØ says Orrico, ÔÇ£our customers are assured that the important moments in their lives are being celebrated with a product that is produced in a socially and environmentally responsible manner. It is a true win-win situation.ÔÇØ In fact, Birks & Mayors is applying sustainability throughout the supply chain. Keith Spodek, director for quality assurance and sustainability, has produced a manual of procedures that all its suppliers must adhere to. ÔÇ£In addition to the ethical question,ÔÇØ he says, ÔÇ£we want to apply lean thinking to the way our products are made. Suppliers are audited by us to verify that it is happening.ÔÇØAlthough there are a few sizable retail chains at the luxury end of the spectrum, most retailers are individual outlets without the resources to take an interest in sustainability. So though the extra mile Birks & Mayors takes to run its business ethically costs it money, thereÔÇÖs a marketing message to be had. Display cases often state the provenance of gems, and some Canadians take pride in the home-sourced diamonds. Other customers are pleased to know that the diamonds theyÔÇÖre buying from Botswana are helping to build schools and hospitals for the African country.┬á Its stance has also led to Birks & Mayors being appointed official jeweler to next yearÔÇÖs Winter Games, where the theme of sustainability dovetails perfectly with B&MÔÇÖs core values. An extensive range of jewelry has been produced for visitors interested in green gold as well as the usual gold, silver and bronze. ÔÇô Editorial research by Vincent Kielty┬á